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茴香大螺蛳
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<span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'times new roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'times new roman'">“小小瓶,小小盖,小小瓶中有荤菜”。这个儿时的谜语所说的螺蛳,五十年后的今日,还令我留恋不已。</span><font size=3> </font><p class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%"><span lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%" xmllang="EN-US"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"><font face="Times New Roman"> </font></span></span><font size=3> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'times new roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'times new roman'">做法并不难:螺蛳先用清水浸泡一两天,换两三次水,让它排尽污物;然后一个个地剪去它的尾巴,起油锅下入炒一下;洒点酒,再下葱结、姜、盐、酱油、糖和八角茴香、桂皮,加水漫过螺蛳,再加一块猪油</span><span lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%" xmllang="EN-US"><font face="Times New Roman">(</font></span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'times new roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'times new roman'">加半斤猪肉更好</span><span lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%" xmllang="EN-US"><font face="Times New Roman">)</font></span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'times new roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'times new roman'">,旺火烧开,再连烧三、四滚,至味已入透,出锅,洒些青蒜花和胡椒面,拌匀,便可以吃了。它的吃法有点特别,要一个个地吮吸着吃,由于已剪去了尾巴,就螺口猛地一吸,带有浓味汤汁的螺蛳肉,就连汤带肉吸入口中。螺蛳肉稍硬韧而具鲜香味,加上汤味,虽然肉只有小指顶那么一丁点,却由于不断吮吸、咀嚼,滋味甚长,韵味不绝,成为伴酒的绝妙佳品。</span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%"><span lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%" xmllang="EN-US"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"><font face="Times New Roman"> </font></span></span><font size=3> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'times new roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'times new roman'">我常想起小时吃螺蛳的情景。</span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%"><span lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%" xmllang="EN-US"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"><font face="Times New Roman"> </font></span></span><font size=3> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'times new roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'times new roman'">每天下午,小贩们煮好螺蛳,挑上担子沿街叫卖:“茴香大螺蛳</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体">哦!”</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'times new roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'times new roman'">穿街过巷,一声递一声,充盈在小城深处。待我们这些小学生放学归途,那螺蛳的鲜香之气和悠长的叫卖声,一同飘荡在迷茫的暮霭之中。我们背着书包,自然地汇集在那些螺蛳担旁,掏出一个铜板,买一小碟茴香大螺蛳,虽然只有一、二十个,却每次都得到酣畅的吮吸。</span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%"><span lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%" xmllang="EN-US"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"><font face="Times New Roman"> </font></span></span><font size=3> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'times new roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'times new roman'">当然这螺蛳不止我的家乡有,相同的还有广西梧州的“生炒田螺”,湖南的“永州喝螺”等,苏州的叫卖则是道地的吴侬软语“阿要酱油热螺蛳——”,绍兴人又生动地描述了它的迷人之处:“剁螺蛳过酒,强盗来了不肯走。”古人也没有疏忽了它,有诗咏曰:</span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%"><span lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%" xmllang="EN-US"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"><font face="Times New Roman"> </font></span></span><font size=3> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'times new roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'times new roman'">“走市买彘骨,醯酱点橙椒,</span><span lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%" xmllang="EN-US"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"><font face="Times New Roman"> </font></span></span> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'times new roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'times new roman'">炒螺最知名,美不数鱼蟹。”</span></font></p><p class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%"><span lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%" xmllang="EN-US"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes"><font face="Times New Roman"> </font></span></span><font size=3> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'times new roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'times new roman'">螺蛳,常常被视作下等肴馔,故浙江民间又名之为</span> <span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'times new roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'times new roman'">“穷开荤”,其实,其味如杭州人所说的“清明螺,胜似鹅”,其营养价值如民间所说“清明螺蛳赛人参”,哪里低下呢!</span></font></p> |
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